United States · EST 1897

Filson

Last assessed 2 Jan 2026

Mixed

While the core "Mackinaw Wool" and "Tin Cloth" outerwear remains durable (and expensive), the vast majority of the catalog is now imported sportswear priced as if it were domestic heritage gear.

Originally established to outfit prospectors for the Klondike Gold Rush, C.C. Filson Co. built its reputation on heavy-duty "Tin Cloth" (waxed canvas) and 24oz Mackinaw Wool. Today, the brand occupies the "luxury heritage" sector. While they retain a shrinking domestic production line for their most iconic items, they are primarily a lifestyle brand selling imported casual wear.

Brand History

History

1897

Founded by Clinton C. Filson in Seattle to outfit Gold Rush prospectors.

1914

Patented the Mackinaw Cruiser shirt/jacket.

1970

Sold by the Filson family to Stan Kohls, initiating the first expansion of the product line.

2012

Acquired by Bedrock Manufacturing Co. (founded by Tom Kartsotis of Fossil Group).

2023

Closure of the historic Seattle manufacturing floor; production shifts to LA and offshore.

Warranty & Returns

First Quality Items: Lifetime of the product (not the owner). Covers manufacturing defects, not "normal wear and tear."
FRD (Restoration): Excluded. Used/repaired items sold by Filson are final sale and non-warrantied.

Returns: 30 Days (USA) / 14 Days (EU). Items must be unworn with tags. Logistics: US returns incur a $8.00 return shipping fee (deducted from refund).

Why They're Listed

Filson is listed strictly for its legacy materials: Mackinaw Wool and Tin Cloth. The Mackinaw Cruiser, a design patented in 1914, uses 24-26oz virgin wool—a weight rarely seen in current production. The design insulates when wet and resists decades of abrasion.

Noteworthy Products

Mackinaw Wool Cruiser

The brand's flagship; a 24oz-26oz virgin wool jacket with four front cargo pockets and a full-width rear "map pocket." Still cut and sewn in the USA, and remains in continuous production since 1914.

Rugged Twill Briefcase (256)

Historically the standard for durable business carry, made from 22oz cotton twill and bridle leather. **Note:** Recent pricing ($450+) has pushed this item into the luxury bracket, though construction remains robust.

Tin Cloth Packer Coat

A thigh-length coat made from oil-finished canvas. It acts as effective armor against thorns and abrasion, though unlined versions offer no insulation and become stiff in freezing temperatures.

Important Context

The Seattle Factory Closure (2023): In October 2023, Filson closed its primary manufacturing facility in Seattle, laying off the unionized workforce. While some "Made in USA" items remain, production has largely shifted to non-union contract facilities in Los Angeles or offshore.

Price vs. Origin Mismatch: Since the 2012 acquisition by Bedrock Manufacturing, prices have increased while production transparency has decreased. Basic flannel shirts and tees are frequently made in Sri Lanka, Turkey, or Bangladesh, yet command prices ($100-$180) historically associated with domestic labor.

Wax Transfer: The signature "Oil Finish" Tin Cloth is heavily saturated with paraffin wax. It will transfer oil onto car seats, upholstery, and other clothing in warm weather. This is a material property, not a defect, but frequently surprises new owners.

Manufacturing: Owned by Bedrock Manufacturing Co. (Texas).

* USA (Contract/LA): Mackinaw Wool Cruisers, Rugged Twill bags (decreasingly). * Vietnam: Technical rain shells (Skagit/Swiftwater), down jackets, and modern backpacks. * Sri Lanka & Bangladesh: Button-down shirts, tees, lightweight pants. * Portugal: Wool knitwear and some jersey fabrics.

Further Information

Dating Filson Garments: You can date most Filson items by the small white tag sewn into the inner side seam or pocket. Look for a 3 or 4-digit code (e.g., 0311 = March 2011).

Talon Zippers: If a bag or jacket has brass Talon brand zippers, it is likely pre-2000s and highly desirable. YKK Zippers: Modern production uses YKK brass zippers.

Bedrock: Collectors distinguish between "Pre-Bedrock" (Pre-2012) and "Post-Bedrock" items. Pre-2012 items are almost exclusively Made in USA with heavier hardware. Post-2012 items introduced the "Seattle Fit" (slimmer cuts) and the rapid expansion into imported sportswear.

Restoration Department: Filson operates a resale program where they repair and resell heavily used gear. These items are stamped "FRD" or have a black line through the tag. They are excellent for durability but carry no warranty.